Richard McGuinness's Tourmaster Notes provide up-to-the-minute information about Model T Club tours and events. Richard can be reached at 702-556-0807.
Here we go!
Please see the Calendar of events for a detailed listing of the journeys and get togethers scheduled for October and November 2012.
Reminder: In future for trips where trailering will be required, I will have a sign up list for such events. You can inform me in person or by telephone and in the event you must back out (right up to the day of the event); please call my home or mobile phone so plans can be altered accordingly.
While overhauling my engine recently, I found my camshaft had excessive front and rear travel which would cause a lot of noise. I found here is a shim kit available to fix his (about $20 at either Chaffin's or Mac's). This kit is placed between the cam gear nut and the engine front plate. With this kit, I have eliminated most of the travel in my camshaft, and now my engine is a great deal quieter. If you still use the old type of crankshaft seal (two halves), you can do this job with the engine installed, but you will have to remove the radiator.
Carbon buildup in cylinders. If you have not removed your cylinder head in a long time to clean out carbon and to check the valves, you may want to consider it with winter coming. In the past week, we had a club member whose T was getting hard to start, smoking, and losing power. While hand cranking and using the starter, the engine appeared to have a weak cylinder. After doing a compression check and finding one cylinder very low, it was yelled, "Off with the head!" It was discovered the carbon buildup was so heavy that a small piece got lodged in the No. 2 exhaust valve seat thus preventing complete closure and preventing the valve from turning in it's seat. This allowed for carbon to build in the valve seat causing the valve to burn. After finding a replacement valve, lapping the vales, and removing all carbon from the head and piston tops, this T's engine is very happy now. In short, a few hours work under the cylinder head once a year will give you many months of smooth driving.
Here are running and maintenance tips from earlier:
As always please ensure your car's steering is tight, hub bolts are tight, tires are properly inflated, fans are greased and you have plenty of oil, gas, and water in your cars. For our long trips, having a small gas can is advised as well as having a spare set of spark plugs and a fan belt.
With the weather getting hotter, pay attention to your battery and carburetor setting. If you are not regularly running your T, the heat (like the cold) can give you starting trouble. Just running the engine at idle in the garage is not enough. A trickle charger would be wise; keep the posts and cables clean and cells covered with distilled water if not the maintenance free type. Drivers know that if they run an engine too retarded the engine heats up; well the same can be said for running the engine too rich. If your engine has been heating up and you know your spark is advanced, you may want to look at the fuel mixture. Try to run your engine as lean as you feel comfortable with without sacrificing power; your engine will thank you. To help prevent vapor lock add a little Marvel Mystery Oil to your fuel (about 3 oz to 9 gal of fuel tends to work well).